Tengu Carving in Kushida Shrine

 Tengu carving in Kushida shrine (櫛田神社) in Hakata, Fukuoka city, my favorite town!

Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year

During winter in Japan, myriad of illuminations take place all over Japan to cheer visitors up! Illumination at JR Hakata station, which is decorated with around 800 thousands LED lights, signifies "hope" of our new era, Reiwa (令和).

The kanji characters for Reiwa (令和) are derived from the Man-yohshu (万葉集), an anthology of waka poetry (和歌), compiled in the 8th Century. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan provided an English interpretation of Reiwa as "beautiful harmony".

Symbol tree

According to Fukuoka city official website, they claim their city as a town of light (光の街・福岡) and the symbol tree accounts for it. Illuminated colors of the tree represent those of nature in four seasons.

LED Sky Walk

It takes place from 6th of November to 7th of January (starting from 17:00 till midnight).

Wishing you a Happy New Year 2020!

Dazaifu Tenmangu

Dazaifu Tenmangu (太宰府天満宮) is a shinto shrine located in Dazaifu of current Fukuoka Prefecture. From the 8th to the 12th centuries Dazaifu served as a local government dealing with foreign affairs (trading and military headquarter) and ruling several provinces in northern part of Kyushu.

Dazaifu Tenmangu launched its history as a mausoleum of Michizane Sugawara (菅原 道真 845 –903 A.D.), a scholar, poet, and politician of the Heian Period. Although several candidates are listed as Michizane's birthplace, he is said to be born in current Sugawara town in Nara city (well, town is named after his clan). 

Statue of Michizane Sugawara

He was a man of numerous talents in terns of studying and poets. After graduating from university, he developed his career in the court as a scholar, then, thanks to Emperor Uda's support, became a bureaucrat. For more detailed info about his career, see his Wiki.

In pre-modern time of Japan, the position of career was assigned according to the hereditary title of the family. Politicians and Bureaucrats started watching him with envy and malice as his position ascended. He was even encouraged by his opponent, Kiyotsura Miyoshi (三善清行), to retire from politics and enjoy the life but he refused to do so.

In 901, through the political maneuvering of his rival, Tokihira Fujiwara (藤原時平), Michizane was demoted from his aristocratic rank of junior second to a minor local post at Dazaifu that is far from the Kyoto Capital. Two year later from the dispatch (903 AD) he passed away there with great grief and despair, people who knew him thought so... 

Map of Dazaifu - Tenmangu is located at north-east (鬼門) of Dazaifu.

It is said that he passed away at Enokisha (榎社) and his body was buried at Anrakuji Temple (安楽寺). His body was carried by ox wagon (牛車) to the temple, however, the ox stopped pulling his body in temple's precinct. According to this narrative, his monastery was built by Yasuyuki Umasake (味酒安行) at the very place where ox wagon lied down. Yasuyuki Umasake called Michizane's monastery "Amabara-san Byoin Anrakuji temple (pronunciation???/天原山庿院安楽寺)" in AD 905. Later on the name was changed to Anrakuji temple Tenmangu (安楽寺天満宮). That's why statues of cow can be seen in Tenmangu. Another coincidence. Michizane was born in AD 805 when animal of the year was cow!


Today 11 statues of cow are scattered in shrine's precinct.

How many of them could I happen to find???

Cow/bull with red scarf

Tip of right horn missing???

Relaxing under shadow

My favorite

Calf with white (stray) cat

I found only 8 unfortunately during relatively short stay surrounded by countless numbers of foreigners mostly Chinese visitors. I heard more Chinese conversation than that of Japanese!!!!

Plum called Tobi Ume (飛梅) in Japanese is the sacred tree of Tenmangu. Three stocks of Tobi Ume trees grown in front of Main Hall were transferred from Enoki sha where Michizane passed away, meaning they are 1100 years old and still bloom every February!

Plum trees in front of Main Hall

Inside of Main Hall

Other than 11 cows, are giraffe, owl (behind giraffe) and deers there, as well.

Giraffe as an imaginary creature

Statue of Lion???

Ah, monkey performance took place there. Actually that monkey is born in my prefecture where Nikko city locates.

Today he is well-known as a deity of studying but this was not the case from the beginning. Originally he was revered as Tenman-dai zizai Tenjin (天満大自在天神) because, after Michizane's death (903 AD), several coincidences took place in Kyoto. These include calamities such as a death of Michizane's rival, Tokihira Fujiwara in 909, Seiryo-den Palace (清涼殿) struck by lightning (清涼殿落雷事件) in 930 that resulted in couple of bureaucrat's death as well as Emperor Daigo (醍醐天皇), drought to starvation, plague breakout, and so on. Whenever the disasters and calamities struck in Kyoto capital, people freaked out and feared that Michizane ('s evil spirit) caused them. To calm his spirit down, Kitano Tenmangu (北野天満宮) was built in 947. That's how Michizane was enshrined as Temjin deity. 

Back in olden days people believed that the river is the border between the life and death. The bridge is, literally, the path to connect two distinct world. Politicians and bureaucrats who persecuted Michizane to death with despair didn't want his spirit to come back to their world and punish them as a vengeance. 

Image is from official site with modifications, indicating the position and the number of bridges.

In Dazaifu Tenmangu there are pond and river making across the main path (参道, highlighted in red line). In order to get to main hall where Michizane's spirit resides, six bridges await for you. In other words, to interpret the very fact based on Michizane's point of view, his spirit needs to come across six times to get into our living world. 

Bridge #1 called Taiko (= drum) bridge (太鼓橋) representing "past"

Bridge #2 called Hira (= flat) bridge (平橋) representing "present"

Bridge #3 called again Taiko (=drum) bridge, representing "future". Local high school lass drawing by the bridge

Bridges 4 through 6 are quite shocking to me. Despite the fact that they are small in size, these bridges gave a big impression on me. "How fearful had ancient people who were in political power been to Michizane's spirit???, I wondered... They really wanted to confine his spirit in the world of death, I assume.

Hakozakigu Revisited

This is part three entry of Hakozakigu (筥崎宮)  in Chikuzen Province (current Fukuoka Prefecture). Please visit part one entry for background info.

Red torii

Why did I visit again?

It was raining when I visited for the first time and couldn't see the second and the third Torii gates.

Guide map from their HP

The God of weather blessed me this time! 

Based on their website, the Torii gates are numbered from the closest one and in April 2018 the 88-year-old-and-16-meter-tall third tori, located adjacent to stone lantern, was removed for safety reason (in case of falling apart). Instead of removing, it could have been renovated... Pity, isn't it?  

Stone lantarn

What intrigues me is that the current 3rd red Torii stands at the shore named Oshioihama (お潮井浜), which looks like entrance is wide-open to the sea for welcoming visitors from the sea. Well, that might be the case in the past when there was no subway or bus to get there. People in an ancient time used to sail by boat, I assume. Currently, the red 4th torii is in the territory of Fukuoka prefecture Shinto ministry bureau and it was not accessible when office is closed.

Red Torii

The second torii is made to imitate the first one. They look alike in shape but you have quite different impression most probably due to the color - the second one is marble-alike and the first one obsidian looking. A title “Hachimangu (八幡宮)” is written in the frame. Hachiman is a nickname of Emperor Ohjin, who, along with his mom Empress Jingu and Princess Tamayori (玉依姫), is enshrined at Hakozakigu.

The 2nd Torii

Their torii has their own characteristic features in its shape. When you take a close look at it carefully, pillars are composed of three blocks and get thicker toward the bottom. The top rail (Kasagi/笠木) is curled upward on margins. Both of top and bottom rail have the same width. Due to its unique features, their tori is called “Hakozaki torii”

The current first torii is built in 1609. When I got closer and closer to the shrine, something caught my eyes. Three flags were hang-up in front of Romon gate (cherry gate/桜門). As described in the first entry, this shrine is politically controversial sort. Two flags are familiar to me and easily recognizable but the one to the left was…. Belgium flag???

First torii

The right flag comprised of two black, yellow and red triangles is a semaphore flag of Imperial Japan Navy. It is called Z flag.

First torii and Romon gate

How come???

Controversial display at Romom Gate

There is a reason. The answer is in this entry. May 27 is the opening fire day with Russo-Japanese naval war in 1905 (Battle of Tsushima) and preparation for the ceremony was ongoing when I visited there (although it wasn’t May 27 when I was there). 

Blue sky!!!

As you already noticed, the sky was utterly blue!!!!

If you are curious about this shrine, here is an official pdf in English!!! It's very well-documented and you are strongly encouraged to check it out.

Miyajidake Shrine

Miyajidake Shrine (宮地嶽神社) is located in Fukutsu city, Fukuoka Prefecture. Based upon Japan chronicles, Kojiki/古事記 and Nihon-shoki/日本書紀, the shrine is said to be founded around 1,700 years ago when Empress Jingu/Okunagatarashihimenomikoto (神功皇后/息長帯比売命) stopped by at Mt. Miyajidake for praying a victory of conquering the southern part of Korea (although there is no historical evidence supporting her reign in Korea. See this link for more detail). The deities to whom Empress Jingu prayed for triumph were Munakata three sisters, "Tagirihine (タギリヒメ)", "Ichikishimabine (イチキシマヒメ)" and "Tagitsubine (タギツヒメ).

Currently, Empress Jingu is enshrined as a main deity and Katsumura-ookami/勝村大神 (藤之高麿) and Katsuyori ookami/勝頼大神 (藤之助麿) are also enshrined as supporting ones. The two supporting deities are considered to be the local clan reigning around Mt. Miyajitake who went to Korea to support Empress Jingu. However, enshrined deities varied with eras...  

At Miyajitake shrine, there are three objects that are ranked the first place in Japan.
The first one is the biggest shinenawa (注連縄). It is 11 meter long with a diameter of 2. 6 meters, weighed at around 3000 kg. It is replaced annually.

The biggest shimenawa in Japan

The second one is the biggest drum/taiko (太鼓) with a diameter of 2.2 meters. Well to be strictly precise, there is drum that is even bigger than this but the shrine claims that their taiko is the biggest that is made of all Japanese materials.

Image from Miyajitake shrine HP

The third object is the biggest bell, weighed at 350 kg that is donated by an ardent believer.

Image from Miyajitake shrine HP

Below is copy&paste the text from shrine's HP. When you have a chance to visit the shrine, why don't you try to find "shining rubbing black cow?"


In Japan, there’s a folk belief that if you stroke a statue of a seated cow, your illness will be cured. This statue is called “nade-ushi (stroking cow)”. It’s believed that your illness will be cured by stroking a nade-ushi statue at the same part of the body where you have the illness. While many shrines across Japan have this nade-ushi, our shrine’s nade-ushi is tiny and cute. It sits quietly in a special place in the vast premises of the shrine. Please try to find our nade-ushi!

The precinct of shrine is quite vast. I spent more than 2 hours there, although there was a constant rainfall there. To be honest, I didn't care above-mentioned three No.1 objects in the shrine... What I wanted to see there was the ancient grave (Kofun/古墳 in Japanese), named Miyajitake Kofun (宮地嶽古墳) that is presumably made in 6th century. I will post part two entry in the future... so stay tuned!

To be continued...

P.S. Official English shrine booklet is available here!

Munakata Taisha Nakatsu-Gu In Ohshima Island

This is the entry inspired by the decision made by The World Heritage Committee held in Krakow in July, 2017. "Sacred island of Okinoshima and associated sites in the Munakata" is now in UNESCO's world heritage site list!

Okinoshima Island (沖ノ島) is located midway between the Kyushu island and the Korean peninsula. The sacred island, along with three nearby reefs and four other related sites were given world heritage status at the UN body’s annual summit in Krakow, Poland.

Okinishima is 97 hectares (240 acres) island invisible in the scale of this map...

In principle, Okinoshima is owned by Munakata Grand shrine (宗像大社) and only the shinto priest can reside in the sacred island. No women are ever permitted to land Okinoshima. It could be due to the fact that enshrined deity, Tagirihime (タギリヒメ)" is a female deity who are jealous at the same gender... If you are a man, there is a only one way to land. Until this year, only 200 jackpod "male" winners are permitted to land for attending the annual ritual ceremony that takes place on the 27th of May. The chance is only once a year!!!!

You may wonder why on 27th of May???

Because it's one day after my birthday...  

No.

Tsushima battle in 1905 (Image from Wikipedia)

The data is set based on the fact that in 1905 the then-shinto priest eyewitnessed the battle of Tsushima (or Naval Battle of the Sea of Japan), a major naval battle fought between Russia and Japan during the Russo-Japanese War (1904-05). 

On my birthday, 26th of May, 200 lucky men who are blessed by Tagirihime female shinto deity get together in Ohshima island (大島), located between Okinoshima and Kyushu, and stay one night there. Everybody can land on Ohshima island and all the photos I posted here were taken in Ohshima island where Munakata Taisha Nanatsu-gu (宗像大社中津宮) is located. Next day, they head for Okinoshima island. Before they go ashore, they must observe centuries-old rituals, including taking their clothes off and undergoing misogi (禊)– bathing naked in the sea to rid themselves of impurities (see video above!!!). 

They are prohibited from taking home mementoes, including small objects such twigs, pebbles and blades of grass, according to the island’s website. The objective of permitting 200 men in sacred island is to honour sailors who died in a nearby naval battle during the 1904-05 Russo-Japanese war.

After visiting Ohshima island, landing on Okinoshima sacred island became one of my "must visit" destination list.

However, Takayuki Ashizu, the chief priest at Munakata Taisha, said the ban on tourism – and women – would stay in place, despite a flood of inquiries from travel agencies.

“We wouldn’t open Okinoshima to the public even if it is inscribed on the Unesco cultural heritage list, because people shouldn’t visit out of curiosity.” Ashizu told the Japan Times last year... 

Oh, well. One of my dream's over.... 
Hang on. There are two ways to land Okinoshima. One is to be a shinto priest at Munakata shrine and the second is to be a scholar in shinto history and land for research! 

It takes 15- 25 min to get to Ohshima island by ferry from mainland Kyushu island (time table is available only in Japanese here). It costs ￥560 JPY one way (adult).

To be continued...