Takahashi Inari Shrine In Kumamoto

Takahashi Inari Shrine (高橋稲荷神社), located in Kumamoto city, is considered (or self-proclaimed) to be one of the five main Inari shrines in Japan. The other include Kyoto Fushimi Inari-taisha (京都伏見稲荷大社), Toyokawa Inari (豊川稲荷 - it belongs to Myogenji Temple/妙嚴寺) in Aichi Prefecture, Saijo Inari (最上稲荷 - again it belongs to Nichiren sect temple, Myo-kyo ji/妙教寺) in Okayama Prefecture and Yuutoku Inari shrine (祐徳稲荷神社) in Saga Prefecture. 

Jinmon Gate/神門

The history of Takahashi Inari shrine dated back to 1496 when the first owner of Kumamoto castle, Chikagazu Kanokogi (鹿子木 親員), built the Jodai castle (上代城) at the Mt. Inari summit. The shrine was founded for safe-guarding the castle by transferring the Inari deity spirit from Kyoto Fushimi Inari-taisha. The original shrine was burnt into ashes in 1541 when Jodai castle was destroyed in the war...

Haiden Hall

When Ieyasu Tokugawa founded Tokugawa shogunate, Hosokawa clan (細川氏) was appointed to be the owner of Kumamoto castle. In 1661, the priest in Kaizoji temple (海蔵寺) where spirits of Hosokawa clan's ancestors were taken care of, was inspired in his dream to re-build Takahashi Inari shrine shrine at the current place.

Since then, Hosokawa clan worshipped and supported the shrine.

The enshrined deity is Ukanomitama (ウカノミタマ). Inari shrines are said to exist around 3,000 in Japan and an additional 30,000 Inari shrines exist as as auxiliary shrine (sessha/摂社). 

Although Ukanomitama is enshrined in such a great number of shrines, we  know very little about this shinto deity. The name of Ukanomitama, indeed, appear in the myths but no depictions as to who she is (Ukanomitama is thought to be a female deity) and what she's done can be found in mythologies- Kojiki and Nihon shoki.

Big torii gate

"Uka (ウカ/倉稲)" in Ukanomitama is thought to mean "cereals or foods" and Inari (稲荷) in Inari shrine is considered to mean "ripening rice". People come to visit the shrine hoping for bumper crops (五穀豊穣) and success in business (商売繁盛). Alternatively, another Kanji,鋳成 (いなり), is applied to "Inari", meaning "casting iron". Several hypothesis have been raised to explain Inari shrine based on the production of iron. I'd love to exhibit several facts about it but I'd refrain from it here in this entry...

Note the "五穀豊穣" flag

Ukanomitama is a daughter of Susanowo (スサノオ) and Kamu-ooichihime (カムオオイチヒメ). Kamu-ooichihime, a daughter of Ohyamatsumi (オオヤマヅミ), is alternatively called Ohtoshi-mioya kami (大歳御祖神). Brother of Ukanomitama is Ohtoshi/Toshigami (トシカミ) - a deity (kami) of the year (toshi/年), who appears in New Year's day. The traditional ritual ceremonies in New Year's day in Japan are originally to welcome the "Year of deity, Toshikami", BTW.

Countless number of red torii gates

Inari shrine is easily recognizable by it's characteristic of multiple red torii gates and foxes. 

Gold foxes in Haiden Hall

The highest ranking, Sho-ichii (正一位), is bestowed to the Inari shrine. 

正一位- the ultimate ranking bestowed. Photo is taken elsewhere... 

Due to Kumamoto earthquakes in 2016, several places (such as stone lanterns) are still damaged.

Hakozakigu Revisited

This is part three entry of Hakozakigu (筥崎宮)  in Chikuzen Province (current Fukuoka Prefecture). Please visit part one entry for background info.

Red torii

Why did I visit again?

It was raining when I visited for the first time and couldn't see the second and the third Torii gates.

Guide map from their HP

The God of weather blessed me this time! 

Based on their website, the Torii gates are numbered from the closest one and in April 2018 the 88-year-old-and-16-meter-tall third tori, located adjacent to stone lantern, was removed for safety reason (in case of falling apart). Instead of removing, it could have been renovated... Pity, isn't it?  

Stone lantarn

What intrigues me is that the current 3rd red Torii stands at the shore named Oshioihama (お潮井浜), which looks like entrance is wide-open to the sea for welcoming visitors from the sea. Well, that might be the case in the past when there was no subway or bus to get there. People in an ancient time used to sail by boat, I assume. Currently, the red 4th torii is in the territory of Fukuoka prefecture Shinto ministry bureau and it was not accessible when office is closed.

Red Torii

The second torii is made to imitate the first one. They look alike in shape but you have quite different impression most probably due to the color - the second one is marble-alike and the first one obsidian looking. A title “Hachimangu (八幡宮)” is written in the frame. Hachiman is a nickname of Emperor Ohjin, who, along with his mom Empress Jingu and Princess Tamayori (玉依姫), is enshrined at Hakozakigu.

The 2nd Torii

Their torii has their own characteristic features in its shape. When you take a close look at it carefully, pillars are composed of three blocks and get thicker toward the bottom. The top rail (Kasagi/笠木) is curled upward on margins. Both of top and bottom rail have the same width. Due to its unique features, their tori is called “Hakozaki torii”

The current first torii is built in 1609. When I got closer and closer to the shrine, something caught my eyes. Three flags were hang-up in front of Romon gate (cherry gate/桜門). As described in the first entry, this shrine is politically controversial sort. Two flags are familiar to me and easily recognizable but the one to the left was…. Belgium flag???

First torii

The right flag comprised of two black, yellow and red triangles is a semaphore flag of Imperial Japan Navy. It is called Z flag.

First torii and Romon gate

How come???

Controversial display at Romom Gate

There is a reason. The answer is in this entry. May 27 is the opening fire day with Russo-Japanese naval war in 1905 (Battle of Tsushima) and preparation for the ceremony was ongoing when I visited there (although it wasn’t May 27 when I was there). 

Blue sky!!!

As you already noticed, the sky was utterly blue!!!!

If you are curious about this shrine, here is an official pdf in English!!! It's very well-documented and you are strongly encouraged to check it out.

Koinobori - Carp Streamers in Breeze

Koinobori (鯉のぼり) - a carp kites fit well in the blue spring sky in Japan!

A tradition of hanging carp-shaped windsocks up in Children's Day, May 5th, was originated from Chinese mythology. 

In an ancient China, the Dragon's gate (登龍門) is believed to be the swift stream of Yellow river located at Shanxi province.  The gate was made through excavating the legendary mountain, Mt. Dragon (龍門山). The construction was ordered by "Ye the Great", a founder of Xia dynasty (2070-1600 BC), according to Wiki in Japanese (Chinese Wiki says Mt. Dragon is located at Luoyang).   

Numerous fish tried to leap such devastating rapids of the Dragon's gate, however, none of them were successful.

Except carp! 

A carp that can accomplish the mission eventually turned into the Dragon, according to Chinese myth. Dragon is a symbol of power, strength, fortune and so on. It also represents imperial power. The image of a carp jumping over Dragon’s Gate is an old and enduring Chinese cultural symbol for courage, perseverance, and accomplishment. 

In Japan, May 5th (called Tango no sekku/端午の節句) is one the five annual ceremonies that were traditionally held at the Japanese imperial court. Interestingly, in ancient Japan, May 5th was the one for women but around Edo period, it became what it is in present time (for boy's ceremony).

When I visited Yodohime shrine (與止日女神社), the most prestigious shrine in Hizen Province (current Saga Prefecture), the spring festival (第40回川上峡春まつり) took place in Kase river (嘉瀬川) that runs by Yodohime shrine.

Rescued black carp

The weather was nice and the sky was blue. But not much wind... They don't look like a triumphal carps transforming into dragon... 

Rather they look gasping:(((

Gasping for breath...

Thanks to an occasional breeze, they looked alive... a bit.

"Boys be ambitious" by William S. Clark.

Big O in Tokyo

You may wonder why this it is called "Big O". 

Yes, it is indeed big wheel with 60 meter diameter and "O" is named from a "centerless" non-rotating structure. In 2006 it is listed as the world's largest centerless Ferris wheel by Guiness World Records!!!

The rail of roller coaster called "Thunder Dolphin" goes through the "O-ring" of Big O! 

It's located very close to Tokyo Dome.

Miyajidake Shrine

Miyajidake Shrine (宮地嶽神社) is located in Fukutsu city, Fukuoka Prefecture. Based upon Japan chronicles, Kojiki/古事記 and Nihon-shoki/日本書紀, the shrine is said to be founded around 1,700 years ago when Empress Jingu/Okunagatarashihimenomikoto (神功皇后/息長帯比売命) stopped by at Mt. Miyajidake for praying a victory of conquering the southern part of Korea (although there is no historical evidence supporting her reign in Korea. See this link for more detail). The deities to whom Empress Jingu prayed for triumph were Munakata three sisters, "Tagirihine (タギリヒメ)", "Ichikishimabine (イチキシマヒメ)" and "Tagitsubine (タギツヒメ).

Currently, Empress Jingu is enshrined as a main deity and Katsumura-ookami/勝村大神 (藤之高麿) and Katsuyori ookami/勝頼大神 (藤之助麿) are also enshrined as supporting ones. The two supporting deities are considered to be the local clan reigning around Mt. Miyajitake who went to Korea to support Empress Jingu. However, enshrined deities varied with eras...  

At Miyajitake shrine, there are three objects that are ranked the first place in Japan.
The first one is the biggest shinenawa (注連縄). It is 11 meter long with a diameter of 2. 6 meters, weighed at around 3000 kg. It is replaced annually.

The biggest shimenawa in Japan

The second one is the biggest drum/taiko (太鼓) with a diameter of 2.2 meters. Well to be strictly precise, there is drum that is even bigger than this but the shrine claims that their taiko is the biggest that is made of all Japanese materials.

Image from Miyajitake shrine HP

The third object is the biggest bell, weighed at 350 kg that is donated by an ardent believer.

Image from Miyajitake shrine HP

Below is copy&paste the text from shrine's HP. When you have a chance to visit the shrine, why don't you try to find "shining rubbing black cow?"


In Japan, there’s a folk belief that if you stroke a statue of a seated cow, your illness will be cured. This statue is called “nade-ushi (stroking cow)”. It’s believed that your illness will be cured by stroking a nade-ushi statue at the same part of the body where you have the illness. While many shrines across Japan have this nade-ushi, our shrine’s nade-ushi is tiny and cute. It sits quietly in a special place in the vast premises of the shrine. Please try to find our nade-ushi!

The precinct of shrine is quite vast. I spent more than 2 hours there, although there was a constant rainfall there. To be honest, I didn't care above-mentioned three No.1 objects in the shrine... What I wanted to see there was the ancient grave (Kofun/古墳 in Japanese), named Miyajitake Kofun (宮地嶽古墳) that is presumably made in 6th century. I will post part two entry in the future... so stay tuned!

To be continued...

P.S. Official English shrine booklet is available here!

Munakata Taisha Nakatsu-Gu In Ohshima Island

This is the entry inspired by the decision made by The World Heritage Committee held in Krakow in July, 2017. "Sacred island of Okinoshima and associated sites in the Munakata" is now in UNESCO's world heritage site list!

Okinoshima Island (沖ノ島) is located midway between the Kyushu island and the Korean peninsula. The sacred island, along with three nearby reefs and four other related sites were given world heritage status at the UN body’s annual summit in Krakow, Poland.

Okinishima is 97 hectares (240 acres) island invisible in the scale of this map...

In principle, Okinoshima is owned by Munakata Grand shrine (宗像大社) and only the shinto priest can reside in the sacred island. No women are ever permitted to land Okinoshima. It could be due to the fact that enshrined deity, Tagirihime (タギリヒメ)" is a female deity who are jealous at the same gender... If you are a man, there is a only one way to land. Until this year, only 200 jackpod "male" winners are permitted to land for attending the annual ritual ceremony that takes place on the 27th of May. The chance is only once a year!!!!

You may wonder why on 27th of May???

Because it's one day after my birthday...  

No.

Tsushima battle in 1905 (Image from Wikipedia)

The data is set based on the fact that in 1905 the then-shinto priest eyewitnessed the battle of Tsushima (or Naval Battle of the Sea of Japan), a major naval battle fought between Russia and Japan during the Russo-Japanese War (1904-05). 

On my birthday, 26th of May, 200 lucky men who are blessed by Tagirihime female shinto deity get together in Ohshima island (大島), located between Okinoshima and Kyushu, and stay one night there. Everybody can land on Ohshima island and all the photos I posted here were taken in Ohshima island where Munakata Taisha Nanatsu-gu (宗像大社中津宮) is located. Next day, they head for Okinoshima island. Before they go ashore, they must observe centuries-old rituals, including taking their clothes off and undergoing misogi (禊)– bathing naked in the sea to rid themselves of impurities (see video above!!!). 

They are prohibited from taking home mementoes, including small objects such twigs, pebbles and blades of grass, according to the island’s website. The objective of permitting 200 men in sacred island is to honour sailors who died in a nearby naval battle during the 1904-05 Russo-Japanese war.

After visiting Ohshima island, landing on Okinoshima sacred island became one of my "must visit" destination list.

However, Takayuki Ashizu, the chief priest at Munakata Taisha, said the ban on tourism – and women – would stay in place, despite a flood of inquiries from travel agencies.

“We wouldn’t open Okinoshima to the public even if it is inscribed on the Unesco cultural heritage list, because people shouldn’t visit out of curiosity.” Ashizu told the Japan Times last year... 

Oh, well. One of my dream's over.... 
Hang on. There are two ways to land Okinoshima. One is to be a shinto priest at Munakata shrine and the second is to be a scholar in shinto history and land for research! 

It takes 15- 25 min to get to Ohshima island by ferry from mainland Kyushu island (time table is available only in Japanese here). It costs ￥560 JPY one way (adult).

To be continued...

Takami Shrine

Takami shrine (高見神社) is located at the heart of Kitakyushu city, Fukuoka Prefecture.

In the main hall 12 enshrined deities include (1) Amenominakanushi (天之御中主神), (2) Takamimusubi (髙御産巣日神), (3) Kamimusubi (神産巣日神), (4) Umashiashikabihikoji (可美葦芽彦遅神), (5) Amenotokotachi (天之常立神), (6) Kuninotokotachi (国之常立神), (7) Toyokumonu (豊雲野神), (8) Amaterasu (天照大御神), (9) Amenooshihomimi (天忍穂耳命), (10) Ninigi (皇孫瓊々杵命), (11) Hikohohodemi/Hoori (彦穂々手見命), (12) Ugayafukiaezu (鵜萱葺不合命). 

Whew!!!

I am afraid that not so many readers are familiar with them, except (8) Amaterasu (天照大御神) but I tell you that they all are really big names, and the list of them is like all-star game members to me!!

The first 5 deities are collectively called "Kotoamatsukami (別天津神), who appeared at the time of the creation of the universe in Japanese methodologies, Kojiki and Nihon Shoki. Unlike the later gods, these deities were born without any procreation. They are asexual and also called "Hitorigami (独神)". They are described as hiding themselves away once they achieved awareness. 

Later on, seven deities called "Kamiyonanayo - Seven Generations of the Age of the Gods"(神世七代)" appeared with whom (6) Kuninotokotachi (国之常立神) and (7) Toyokumonu (豊雲野神) are included. I would like to list the remaining 5 deities of Seven Generations but I should omit them here... So let's continue introducing the remaining enshrined deities.

(8) Amaterasu's son is (9) Amenooshihomimi (天忍穂耳命), the son of (9) Amenooshihomimi (天忍穂耳命) is (10) Ninigi (皇孫瓊々杵命), Ninigi's son is (11) Hikohohodemi/Hoori (彦穂々手見命/ホオリ　or Yamasachihiko/山幸彦) and Hoori's son is (12) Ugayafukiaezu (鵜萱葺不合命) who is a father of the first Emperor Jimmu (Iwarebiko)!!!

Again Whew!!!

In Wakamiya (若宮社), Emperor Nintoku (大雀命/仁徳天皇) and his wife Iwanohime (石之比売命) are enshrined.

In Sougozen (惣御前社) three female deities called "Munakata three sister deities Takiribine (多紀理毘売命), Ichikishimabine (市杵島比売命) and Tagitsuhime (多岐都比売命)" are enshrined. They are born in the ritual ceremony "Ukei (誓約)" made between Amaterasu and Susanoo, the younger brother of Amaterasu.

At last in Saishu (歳守社) Ohkuni (大己貴命) and Toyoukebine (豊受姫命) are enshrined. Ohkuni is a well-known deity enshrined in Izumo ohyashiro (出雲大社) whereas Toyoukebine is known to be enshrined at Geguu (outer palace/外宮) in Ise grand shrine (伊勢神宮). This combination of deities is a bit bizarre to me as I can't find a significant relationship between them... 

Whew!!! One more time.

While preparing this entry, I found the intriguing fact that the in such a small area there are seven shrines named "Takami shrine"!!!

1. 鷹見神社 4-5-1, Inokuma, Mizukami, Onga, Fukuoka, 807-0001
2. 鷹見神社折尾 10-56, Minami-takami, Yahatanishi, Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, 807-0833
3. 高見神社 7-15, Norimatsu, Yahatanishi, Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, 807-0831 
4. 鷹見神社 2-13-9, Einomaru, Yahatanishi, Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, 807-0851
5. 鷹見神社 2-13-6, Anoo, Yahatanishi, Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, 806-0049
6. 鷹見神社 Ichinose, Yahatanishi, Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, 806-0063
7. 高見神社 1-1-1, Takami, Yahatahigashi, Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, 805-0016 - this is the one I visited.

I repeat. The pronunciation is the same but two different Kanjis are used for "Taka" - one is 高/hight and the second is 鷹/falcon. 

Family emblem of the shrine, falcon feathers

Guess what?

The family emblem of all shrines holds the same, falcon feather (鷹羽). This was the first time to see the unique emblem in my eyes!!!

Main Hall

It is said that the shrine was founded when Empress Jingu visited the hill by Doukai bay (洞海湾) where she prayed for the triumph of conquering the southern part of Korea/三韓征伐 (around AD 200???) by enshrining twelve ancestral deities of Royal family (= her ancestors) that are listed above.

In 1896 when Yawata (or Yahata) Steel Works (八幡製鐵所 ) was launched there, the spirits of enshrined deities were transferred to the Toyoyama Hachiman shrine (豊山八幡神社) where the spirits stayed for 37 years.

The current Takami shrine was established in 1933 due to the celebration of the current 125th Emperor Akihito, as well as the establishment of Japan Iron & Steel Co., Ltd (日本製鐵株式會社 1934-1950)...